There were a lot of things that did not look so great on the DKNY runway Monday night. The track pants with the awkward half-moon cut-outs where the side pockets should have been are a case in point.
There was derriere cleavage, too. And, no, it was not good. Not even a little bit.
There were drapey tunics and tops in a sheer, sort of parachute-like fabric, and there were pinstriped jackets with trailing threads that sort of resembled fringed business suits. And there were giant fanny packs that one could only imagine being favoured by someone who wants to strap their groceries to their waist.
But at the spring 2017 show, held on this city’s glorious High Line park, designers Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow offered up this one fine suggestion: a hooded warm-up coat that recalls the robes worn by boxers before climbing into the ring. It’s just the thing to slip on before walking out onto the teeming streets of the metropolis. It’s urban camouflage.
Osborne and Chow are still early in their tenure as creative directors of DKNY. And they still have not found their footing. This collection veered from streetwear to clubwear to vague references to banker stripes to why-is-that-pant-leg-slit-down-the-side?
But DKNY was at its fleet-footed best when the models looked as if they were headed to the gym or the corner deli or just strutting down some urban boulevard – headphones in, trying to create a cocoon of privacy amid the swirling crowds.
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