All fashion shows are team efforts, but that was truer than usual at Oscar de la Renta’s Spring 2017 runway show Monday at New York Fashion Week.
Designer Peter Copping left his post abruptly in July, citing only personal circumstances, after less than two years in the job. It was one of a slew of recent departures of top designers at major labels. Copping had been the designated successor of the legendary de la Renta, who died of cancer just as Copping came aboard in 2014.
The new creative directors, Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, will make their debut collection in February. And so Monday’s show was the work of a 13-member design team at the company. The team ran out in unison, smiling and waving, at the end of the show.
As for the show itself, it exhibited the usual polish and finesse one has come to expect at a de la Renta show, with perhaps an added casual vibe: The models all wore flat sandals instead of heels. There were some relaxed caftans, and there was even a canvas safari jacket with wide-legged trousers.
The runway procession began with a summery feel in white and ivory dresses heavy on lacey patterns and florals. Hues deepened as the show progressed, with a number of items in a multi-coloured paisley print, including a midriff-baring ensemble of pants and a bandeau-style top.
Things got fancier with a white silk faille gown with champagne threadwork and gold beading — still accompanied with flat sandals. There were some feathered gowns, and a dramatic long black skirt of all feathers. Two cayenne-colored silk dresses toward the end upped the elegance factor, and the show ended with a striking red gown with billowing sleeves in silk taffeta — a favourite fabric of the company’s famous late founder.
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